How to Count With Your Fingers in Different Languages (Video)

Published in Discovery.com

In Kenya, Edward Norton’s “Club” Fights for the Environment, the Animals, and the Maasai — Along with Others

Published in Discovery.com 

Recent Hotel Openings on Kenya’s Low-Key Lamu

Published in ShermansTravel.com

Larsens Camp Review

Published in Fodors.com

Manda Bay Review

Published in Fodors.com

Sasaab Review

Published in Fodors.com 

Red Pepper House Review

Published in Fodors.com

Top Experiences in Kenya

Published in Fodors.com

Top Experiences

Seeing a Lion

Lions. Are. Awesome. You probably already knew that. However, when it comes to seeing a lion on safari, forget all you know. We're not talking about awesome lion facts that you may know, such as: A lion's roar can be heard up to five miles away. Or, adult males can eat up to 88 pounds of meat in one sitting. We're talking about how awesome it is to see big cats in their natural habitat. It's an event every time. We've repeatedly seen veteran safari guides visibly humbled at the sight of lions. When you get close to a lion in the wild it's an irreducible moment. You are held in thrall, suspended in a world that consists of just you and one special animal, and this dimension simply does not exist in a zoo. The animal may be the same, but there's an incomparable gravitas to seeing it in the environment in which it must struggle to survive. View a lion on safari, and on an unconscious level you'll process not only its marvelous appearance, but also its dramatic relationship to its surroundings. You may happen on a pride sleeping under the shade of an acacia tree and be overcome by how endearing the scene is. But you also understand that you're witnessing more than a lazy afternoon nap. On an unspoken level you just know that the slumbering cats are storing their energy for an epic hunt. Or, as you watch a group of lionesses intently stalking through tall grass, you might even feel the urgency of their primal hunger. And don't even get us started on leopards.

Not Seeing a Lion

As breathtaking as it is to see a lion on safari, spotting them shouldn't be a single-minded pursuit. If you're preoccupied with seeing a big cat, or other Big 5 animals, every time you set out on a game drive, you may unintentionally miscalculate the success rate of your journey. When asked about their drives, people often say, "It was great! We saw four lions, and two cheetahs!" Or, "It was good, but we didn't see any rhino or leopards." This kind of scorekeeping fails to account for the numerous sightings that can be equally wondrous. Often when lions are found, your driver will cut the engine so that you can silently behold their splendor. We highly recommend that you direct this kind of undivided attention to other, more "common" sights throughout your drive as well. Ask your driver to cut the engine at random intervals. Then sit stock still and observe the open plain. Feel it teeming with life. Listen to it—you've never quite "heard" silence like the quiet of the savanna. The landscape is playful—the "Kenya Express," an affectionate term for the famously skittish warthogs throughout Kenya, who comically dash at the slightest disturbance with their tails up like antennas. The landscape can be poignant—witness the heart-wrenching vulnerability of a baby giraffe that has strayed too far from its mother. The landscape can be stoic; see shaggy waterbuck, relatively fearless because lions rarely prey on them, blithely lounging in the grass, staring at you with practiced indifference. But most of all, the landscape is a wonderland with the subtle interplay of wildlife happening everywhere. Receive all it has to offer and you'll be well rewarded.

Getting the Perfect Shot

Three improbably tall giraffes, dwarfed by towering Mt. Kilimanjaro, bathed by the orange glow of the setting sun, are surveying the plains. Suddenly, all three at once turn to look straight at you, practically mugging for the camera, and click. You got it. An image you'll cherish, a picture worth 1,000 words and 8,000 miles of travel. Sure there are tons of memory cards full of African wildlife images that put your "lucky" shot to shame. But this is your special moment; you own it, and there's a particular pride that comes with every image you capture. Your pictures document your trip through a highly personal lens, both photographically and existentially. Perhaps this is why the exact same scene captured with superior shutter speed and composition doesn't inspire nearly as strong a reaction. When you get your "perfect" shot, there's a personal poetry to it that can't be duplicated by anybody else's camera. Your pictures tell your story.

Not Getting the Perfect Shot

The problem with the perfect shot is the amount of time you can spend viewing your surroundings through a 2.7-inch LCD screen to get it. Although you may never have another chance to photograph the gaping maw of a giant hippo as he suddenly rises from the river, you may also never get another chance to experience that moment. Too often folks on safari witness spectacles unfold not before their very eyes (or even through binoculars), but through a tiny screen—waiting for fauna to fall into place, waiting to capture the best action shot. It's somewhat disorienting to consider that you can be in Africa (Africa!), alternating your gaze between the digital image you're trying to capture and the one that you just took. The splendid rise of a hot-air balloon over the sand dunes of Namibia or the impressive leaps of Masai warriors are singularly unique events that shouldn't be witnessed solely through a single-lens reflex. Before you know it, your firsthand experiences will seem nebulous and your memories prematurely dim, leaving you with a succession of moments that can only be recalled through photos and video. Set up your shots, take lots of pictures; they're precious. But more precious is the primary, full-sensory, romantic experience that can only be achieved by unencumbered, full engagement with your surroundings.

Going on a Sundowner

A lot of the recommendations above are variations on "be in the moment"—based on the notion that because safaris are such exhilarating adventures with a raft of stimulus, it sometimes takes a concentrated effort to drink in the here-and-now. Well, quite literally, there's nothing like a sundowner to help you drink it all in. The recipe is simple: Take one particularly scenic spot, often with vistas that cross country borders and stretch to distant mountains, add your choice of cocktails, and watch the sun drench what seems like half of Africa in various hues of orange and pink. An option at most quality lodgings, sundowners are just one example of why you shouldn't skimp on your travel budget in Africa. Raise a glass and toast your glorious day, "kwahafya njema" (in Swahili) as the African sun makes its graceful exit.

Not Going on a Sundowner

Just kidding. You should go.

How Kenya Stirred My Soul

Published in EverTheNomad.com

Top 5 Places to Stay During the Great Migration

Published in Examiner.com

Top 5 places to stay during the Great Migration in Kenya

This month, travelers can once again watch in awe during one of the greatest animal shows on Earth, the Great Migration. Each year, from July through October, millions of zebra, wildebeest, and Thomson's Gazelle venture from Tanzania's Serengeti National Park to Kenya's sprawling Maasai Mara National Reserve, making way for one of the most amazing natural spectacles in the world.
Kenya offers a host of options for viewing this annual wonder. From the supreme luxury of Kichwa Tembo Camp to the intimate safari experience of Little Governor's Camp, and the world-class safari drives at the Kicheche Mara Camp, Kenya boasts a myriad of accommodations ideal for game viewing.

Here is a roundup of five fantastic properties that put you in the midst of the Great Migration:

1. THE CLASSIC SAFARI ESCAPE – Royal Mara Safari Lodge
Situated directly on the wildebeest "Great Migration" route, near two world famous wildebeest migration Mara River crossing points, including the popular Hippo Bend Lagoon, the Royal Mara Safari Lodge is ideal for an unforgettable safari experience. With eight intricately carved riverfront suites, Royal Mara offers a blend of the classic tented safari camp with all the amenities of a lodge. For more information, visit www.royalmara.com.

2. THE ‘OUT OF AFRICA' EXPERIENCE – Kichwa Tembo Camp
Located in the heart of the Maasai Mara, this 40-tent luxury camp is ideal for first time travelers and wildlife enthusiasts alike. Made famous by Robert Redford and Meryl Streep who stayed here while filming ‘Out of Africa,' Kichwa Tembo Camp features a swimming pool, fine-dining restaurant, and specialist guides fully equipped to offer guests an exhilarating safari experience. For more information, visit www.kichwatembo.com.

3. THE INTIMATE GETAWAY – Little Governor's Camp
With just 17 luxury en-suite tents tucked around a large watering hole, Little Governor's Camp offers travelers a friendly respite for game viewing. The camp is reachable by boat across the Mara River and a quick escorted walk through the Riverine Forest. Its recently renovated guest tents feature beautiful wooden decks with large verandahs, ideal for constant game viewing around the camp. For more information, visit www.governorscamp.com.

4. THE HEART OF AFRICA – Mara Serena Safari Lodge
The Mara Serena Safari Lodge offers a ringside seat to the Great Migration. Set high on a bush-cloaked hill with sprawling views of the savannah and the hippo-filled Mara River, it stands centre-stage to one of Africa's most dramatic wildlife arenas. The lodge features 74 traditionally Maasai-decorated rooms, a swimming pool, bar, and a restaurant. For more information, visitwww.serenahotels.com.

5. THE PHOTOGRAPHER'S PARADISE – Kicheche Mara Camp
Hidden in a beautiful acacia valley overlooking the Olare Orok stream, Kicheche Mara Camp features eight stunning luxury tents amidst serene surroundings. Renowned for its excellent food and guides, the camp is very popular with photographers, especially during the Great Migration season. For more information, visit www.kicheche.com.

The Kenya Tourist Board (KTB) is an organization representing Kenya's public and private tourism sectors. The KTB is charged with the responsibility of marketing and promoting Kenya as a preferred tourist destination internationally, while encouraging development of Kenya's domestic tourist market. The KTB fosters quality service and sustained excellence of tourist facilities and amenities. In addition, the KTB works with national and regional authorities to ensure protection of the environment and wildlife, and also works closely with various relevant organizations to promote quality of service and excellence. The Board members are representatives of Kenya's various tourism organizations, including Kenya's Ministry of Tourism, Kenya Association of Tour Operators, Kenya Association of Travel Agents, Kenya Association of Hotel Keepers and Caterers, Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association, Kenya Wildlife Service and Kenya Airways. The KTB is headquartered in Nairobi and has U.S. offices in Los Angeles and New York. For more information, visit www.MagicalKenya.com.

Kenya Tourist Board Lists Top Places for Great Migration

Published in Travelpulse.com

Kenya Tourist Board Lists Top Places for Great Migration

The Kenya Tourist Board released a list of what it calls “The Top Five Places to Stay During the Great Migration in Kenya.” The Great Migration, which takes place on the Serengeti plains across both Kenya and Tanzania, takes place each year from July through October, and is widely acknowledged to be one of the most spectacular displays of wildlife anywhere in the world.

Millions of zebra, wildebeest, and antelope travel from Tanzania's Serengeti National Park to Kenya's Maasai Mara National Reserve following the seasonal growth of fresh grasses, and they are in turn followed by the predators, such as the lions, leopards and cheetahs.

Kenya tourism selected five of a great many wilderness lodges from which visitors may witness the Great Migration. For the “Classic Safari Escape,” it suggests the Royal Mara Safari Lodge on the path of the migration, near two major wildebeest crossing points at the Mara River. The property comprises eight intricately carved riverfront suites and offers a blend of the classic tented safari camp with all the amenities of a lodge.

For the “Out of Africa” experience, Kenya Tourism recommends Kichwa Tembo Camp, a 40-tent luxury camp in the heart of the Maasai Mara. It was the headquarters of Robert Redford and Meryl Streep during the filming of “Out of Africa.” It has a swimming pool, fine-dining restaurant, and specialist guides.

For an “Intimate Getaway,” there is Little Governor's Camp, with 17 luxury en-suite tents around a large watering hole and accessible by boat across the Mara River and an escorted walk through the Riverine Forest. Its recently renovated guest tents have wooden decks with large verandahs, ideal for constant game viewing around the camp.

The “Heart of Africa” selection is Mara Serena Safari Lodge, which is set high on a hill over the savannah and the Mara River. It has 74 rooms with Maasai decorations, a swimming pool, bar and a restaurant. And the “Photographer’s Paradise” is the Kicheche Mara Camp in an acacia valley overlooking the Olare Orok stream. It has eight luxury tents in a serene setting.

The Kenya Tourist Board (KTB) is an organization representing Kenya's public and private tourism sectors. The KTB is charged with the responsibility of marketing and promoting Kenya as a preferred tourist destination internationally, while encouraging development of Kenya's domestic tourist market.

For more information on Africa, visit Sell Africa Travel.

Three Luxe Hotels to Open in Kenya

Published in Fodors.com 

Three Luxe Hotels to Open in Kenya, Plus Branson's Safari Camp

There's more than the "Big Five" to lure safari junkies to Kenya this fall. Three new luxury resorts are opening up before the end of the year, not to mention a swish Richard Branson homestead due out in early 2013.

Good to know: Travel around opening time (August—October) and you're practically guaranteed front-row seats to the thrilling 1.5 million-animal parade that is the Rift Valley wildebeest and zebra migration.

Segera Camp

Located in the foothills of Mount Kenya in Kenya's Laikipia region, the new solar-powered Segera Camp is a collection of two-story timber and thatched-roof villas primed for views over the plateau's grasslands (the camp's 50,000 acres include a section traversed during the east-west elephant migration). Opening in August, the luxury ranch-style camp comes with horse stables, a library, bar, pool, and sun deck. Rates start from $880/night per person and include all meals and drinks, game drives, guided walks, sleep outs, laundry service, WiFi, and local taxes.

Hemingways Nairobi

The 45-suite boutique Hemingways Nairobi hotel, opening November 1, sits nine miles south of Nairobi overlooking the Ngong Hills. Designer suites come with pitched, wood-beamed ceilings, gauze-draped four-poster beds, sitting areas, terraces with valley views, and marble baths. The hotel is a 5-minute drive to Nairobi National Park (the only wildlife reserve next to a major city) and close to the Karen Blixen Museum and The Daphne Sheldrick Wildlife Sanctuary, home to orphaned elephants and rhinos. Rates start from $860/night and include breakfast.

Beach House

In Kenya's coastal region of Kilifi, the Beach House is more like a private vacation rental (that comes with a staff) than a hotel. Located right on the Indian Ocean's sandy shorefront, the Balinese-style four-bedroom house has a state-of-the-art spa just for guests, a pretty pool, and airy shared spaces that spill out onto gardens or overlook the beach. Full-board accommodations—including airstrip transfers from Malindi, Kilifi, or Vipingo, sundowner excursions (hillside cocktails at sunset), drinks (house alcohol, included), laundry, and taxes—start from $7,000/day for a maximum of 12 adults and four kids (in the children's garden cottage).

Mahali Mzuri

Sir Richard Branson's Kenyan safari camp is scheduled to open early next year on the Motorogi Conservancy in the Masai Mara. Mahali Mzuri, which means "beautiful place" in Swahili, will have only 12 tented suites, accommodating just 24 guests at a time. The cool looking tents, perched on a hillside and raised on platforms to optimize views over the landscape and its residents, come with spacious bedrooms and baths, and private terraces. Rates will start from $580/night per person, including all meals, drinks, and game drives daily.

THINKING OF A TRIP TO KENYA?

For up-to-the-minute hotel and restaurant recommendations, as well as the best planning advice, check out our Kenya Travel Guide.

Photo credits: Beach House courtesy of the Beach House; Hemingways Nairobi courtesy of Hemingways Nairobi

Feast: Warrior Blood

Published in Wend Magazine 

Feast: Warrior Blood

Words: Jayme Moye, Photos: Claudia Chang & Christina Erb

Dusk fell like a Technicolor blanket over the Serengeti in Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve. The waning light cast the dirt footpaths in a reddish-copper hue, the grassland vegetation in a golden green. The only perceptible sounds were the grunts of four sarong-clad Masai warriors wrestling a frightened cow into a leather collar. I watched from the brush, beginning to lose my nerve. Earlier in the day, drinking bovine blood had seemed like a good idea. Now, upon seeing the animal, and having just learned that one of the warriors would soon be shooting an arrow into a vein in its neck to induce blood flow, I was having second thoughts.

I was in Kenya as part of a press junket exploring emerging destinations in the safari lands of the country’s national parks. That morning, we’d taken a break from our usual game drives to visit a village of the Samburu, a particularly isolated sub-tribe of the Masai. In the village, we met a warrior who had just returned from a stint in the field protecting cows, prompting Ali, our guide, to explain the integral role the animals play in Masai culture and diet. In the West, cattle are typically raised to produce beef. In Kenya, cows can be prohibitively expensive. For a tribesperson to kill one just for food would be the equivalent of a Western farmer pushing a perfectly good tractor off a cliff, destroying an investment that could otherwise provide years of use. Instead of slaughtering their cows, Masai periodically drain them, drinking the blood as a substitute for meat. They mix the blood with milk for wedding ceremonies and other rites of passage and, believing it to have healing powers, serve it as a tonic to the sick, the elderly and women who’ve just given birth. I was intrigued by the potential healing powers of cow’s blood—and in a position to put it to the test.

Two weeks before landing at the Nairobi airport, a surgeon removed a metal plate that had for the previous nine months helped my broken clavicle piecemeal itself back together. The new surgical wound was still fresh, the stitches not yet dissolved. Having been sidelined from skiing, lifting weights and even practicing yoga for the better part of a year, I was feeling weak and vulnerable. The thought of drinking blood was a bit unsavory, but I reminded myself that I enjoy my steaks medium rare. How different could it be?

My traveling companions had other concerns. “That sounds like a disease waiting to happen,” my photographer Claudia warned as we pulled away from the village in a jeep. “And what about AIDS and mad cow disease and malaria?” She had a point. A Google search on “cow blood disease” back at Larsens Camp, the safari lodge where we were staying, proved discouraging. While cattle don’t carry HIV, they can transmit mad cow disease and other maladies like anaplasmosis, a vector-borne, infectious blood disease caused by parasites. Symptoms include anemia, fever, weight loss, breathlessness, uncoordinated movements, spontaneous abortion and death.

Death? I decided to consult the locals.

Saiton, the 17-year-old Masai warrior who worked chasing monkeys away from the lodge with a bow and arrow, said he had his first taste of blood when he was 7. His father made him drink it mixed with fat because he thought the boy was too thin. Our jeep driver told me no one has ever gotten sick from drinking cow’s blood. “One liter of blood mixed with 1 liter of milk will raise your energy level even when you’re ill,” he said. “And it cures all coughs.”

I had a collarbone in the final stages of healing and, with cycling season just around the corner, was willing to try just about anything. My friends remained less optimistic. Fortunately, they were curious and agreed to let me hijack our plans for a sunset cocktail. Instead, we hopped into the jeep and headed back to the Masai village.

Hiking to the cattle pasture beyond the village brought out my first real reservations about the experience, as Ali explained what I should expect. First, the warriors would select a small, young female cow—they’re weaker and easier for the warriors to hold while draining the blood—then they’d tighten a leather strap around her neck to force a vein to the surface. A warrior would then shoot an arrow into the vein to open it up. No more than 3 liters of blood is taken at a time, for the cow’s safety, explained Ali. By the time we reached the pasture, I felt nauseous. Half a dozen warriors were waiting for us. My victim had already been selected.

A warrior placed one hand inside her mouth and held her ear with his other to control her head. A second warrior held onto her shoulders. A third tightened the strap around her neck. She yanked her head from side to side in protest. Warriors 1 and 2 struggled to keep her still. A fourth warrior knelt beside her, pulled an arrow from his quiver and loaded his bow. As a woman who can’t stomach the sight of her own blood being taken, I had to force myself to watch.

The warrior hovered his arrow 6 inches from the cow’s bulging vein and pulled it back about a third of the way. I watched his forearm muscles contract as he struggled to keep the bow steady. Precision was key. He released the arrow. And missed. His arrow struck just above the vein, then fell to the ground. The cow jerked, her eyes wild.

He tried again. And again. And again. He was patient, methodical. I was frantic. I held my breath, wishing it would just be over. I felt bad for the cow and guilty for having subjected her to this. She was bleeding from multiple small punctures from the arrowhead. I reminded myself that the Masai drink a cow’s blood to preserve the animal for milking instead of slaughtering it for meat. It wasn’t exactly fun for the cow, but it wasn’t dangerous, either. She’d be OK.

But I might not be. Feeling dizzy, I shot a pained look at Claudia. She looked equally disturbed. I was considering calling off the whole thing when a cheer went up from the warriors. The arrow had found its target. A stream of blood sprang from the cow’s neck. The bowman rushed forward with a gourd to capture the flow. Then it was over. Warrior 3 released the rope. Warrior 4 patted a clump of mud over the cow’s wound. And with a slap on the rump, she scampered off.

Meanwhile, the warriors were chugging the blood, passing around the gourd. I gathered my courage and walked into their circle. They fell silent. Maybe they expected me to back out. I thought about the cow—I owed it to her to see this through. I held out my hand. The warriors whooped.

I grasped the heavy gourd with both hands. A warrior helped me tilt it back. I could hear the blood moving toward my mouth. I closed my eyes. I had no idea what to expect.

When the blood hit my tongue, it was neither as hot nor as salty as I’d expected. I took another swig, feeling braver. The taste reminded me of a barnyard red wine I’d had in the south of France. I drank with more gusto. The warriors murmured their approval. The blood was rich, satiating. I liked the way it felt coursing down my throat. I tipped my head all the way back, and blood overflowed down the sides of my face. I released the gourd and stood tall. The warriors cheered. My friends stared in horrified admiration. I felt strong, powerful.

And full. So full I skipped dinner that night. I had an e-mail waiting for me back at the lodge from Shawn Talbott, a nutritional biochemist, whom I’d written just before I’d headed back to the village. He wrote that, assuming I drank from a healthy cow, I’d just consumed a rich source of nutrients, including protein and iron. The protein bovine serum albumin (BSA) has an unusually high bioavailability, making it terrific for healing, which requires absorbing as many amino acids as you can. He also cited studies proving that the immunoglobulins extracted from bovine blood are effective immune system boosters for preventing infection.

Back in Boulder the next week, I went to a follow-up appointment with my surgeon. The nurse came in with my X-rays and hung them on the wall. Dr. Dolbeare studied them. “Well, you get the award for the most perfectly healed collarbone,” he said. “Even your scar looks perfect. Did you put anything special on it?”

“No,” I said, hiding a smile. “Just took some supplements—you know, iron and stuff.”