Elephants at my doorstep: On safari in Kenya's Amboseli National Park

Published in the Boston Globe

I’m sitting on the deck of my tent (an understatement, canvas walls, yes, but also full bed, wood floor, and shower bath) gazing over the savannah grasslands at snow-capped Kilimanjaro, when I hear a rustling. Elephants!

Kenya’s Amboseli National Park, located in the savannah grasslands beneath Mount Kilimanjaro, is world renowned for its elephants. It's one of few places that’s remained relatively undisturbed by population growth and loss of wildlife habitat, thanks to tourism, researchers, and the Maasai people who live in this region. Here, it’s possible to see elephants from newborns to bull males in their 40s and 50s. The park and surrounding Maasai tribal lands double as a migration path for the elephants. Unfortunately poaching, both for meat and the ivory tusks, remains a problem.

The effort to keep the mammoth mammals safe from poachers is continued at Satao Elerai, a tented safari camp located on a private, 5,000-acre conservancy about 10 kilometers outside the park. The lands are on the critical Kitenden Corrider, which links the Kilimanjaro Forest Reserve in Tanzania with Amboseli National Park and beyond, says Wilfred Ngonze, who manages the Maasai-owned conservancy as well as a neighboring one. I’m chatting with him over tea in the main lodge, while more than a dozen elephants cavort in the watering hole outside the window.

“We have a protection team of 12 rangers, and we have a population of more than 100 elephants at any given time,” Ngonze says. “We have observation points and patrols, and when we catch a poacher, we prosecute.” Although currently penalties are lenient, there’s a current bill in parliament that, if passed, will stiffen them, he says. He's hopeful about that. Factors contributing to poaching, Ngonze says, are the instability in neighboring Somalia and southern Sudan coupled with sport hunting in adjacent Tanzania. “In Kenya, we only shoot with a camera,” he quips.

Poaching isn’t the only challenge to managing the conservancy, Ngonzo says. Watering holes are few, and the local Maasai, their livestock, and wildlife share them. Not so the mud bath outside the window. That one is reserved for elephants and other wildlife. Guests can cool off in the pool, sip cocktails, or dine while watching elephants belly up to the bar. Even better, rates help support the conservancy efforts.

On daily game drives, it's easy to see elephants of all ages up close, along with giraffes, baboons, hippos, zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, warthogs, and other critters. The sightings were far beyond my expectations, but my favorites were the ones seen from the lodge, especially the two elephants I saw from tent.

Fly-in packages for Satao Elerai, including airstrip transfers, all meals, two extended game drives daily, night game drive, guided walks, sundowner, house wine and beer, begin at $295 per person. Wilfred Ngonze will meet with guests upon request. 

A Singular Safari

Published in the print edition of Robb Report

Your Weekly Travel Zen: Safaris

Published in the Huffington Post

This week's Moment of Travel Zen comes to us from Susan Portnoy of The Insatiable Traveler. Her photo was taken on a trip to Kenya's Mara Triangle.

"Rain falls, sun shines, it's a mix of dramatic colors on the Masai Mara."

Safaris offer the unique opportunity to connect with nature and witness animals living in their natural habitat. No matter where you go, on a safari you're immersed in your surroundings in a totally zen way.

The 11 Integral Steps to Preparing for a Wildlife Photographic Safari

Published in Jaunted

Every year between July and October, millions of wildebeests march from Tanzania into the Masai Mara National Reserve, chasing the rains and the green grass that follows in what is known as the Great Migration. Travelers have marveled over this natural wonder for years, and for people who love photography, a Great Migration photographic safari provides endless opportunities for mindblowing photos. We just returned from it ourselves, with a slew of new knowledge from our own photo wins and fails.

Whether you're heading out to the Great Migration or something closer to home, here's our 11 tips on how to prepare for the photo safari trip of a lifetime:

1. Arrange Passports, visas and shots

You’ll need a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond your stay and contains at least two facing blank pages, for stamps.

Kenya requires an entry visa for travelers from most countries; it costs $50. You can purchase your visa at the airport upon arrival in Nairobi; or if you prefer to avoid the inevitable lines, you can register online beforehand with the Embassy of the Republic of Kenya in the United States. You’ll need to send in your passport, along with two photos, and you’ll get it back one to two weeks later.

There are no required immunizations for U.S. travelers to enter the country, but there are risks in certain areas of Kenya for malaria and yellow fever. In the Masai Mara, though, the risk is pretty low. Check with your doctor or, better yet, one who specializes in travel medicine. You can also visit the Centers for Disease Control to see if there are any recent health alerts that might affect you.

2. Pack light, but enough to dress in layers

Between July and October, the average temperatures can range from the low-50s to mid-70s, depending on the time of day. Because you won’t want to miss the stunning sunrises, and because animals are most active in the early morning and just before sunset, you’ll want to dress in layers. Pack at least one warm jacket or fleece.

3. Bring more memory cards than you think you’ll need

Africa is rife with stunning landscapes, amazing wildlife, and light that can make an ugly stump look magical. You’ll probably want to take images of the wildebeests and other animals in action; that means you’ll need your camera on burst mode (rapid shots in succession to capture action), which burns through a lot of memory. Nothing is more upsetting than using up your cards with days left on your itinerary.

4. Consider a backup device

If you want to safeguard your images, bring a backup device to download your photos. If you lose a memory card or, God forbid, you miscalculate and have to write over a used card, you won’t lose any pictures. Consider investing in a compact external hard drive. One option is The Silicon Power Rugged A80; it’s both waterproof and shockproof and has 1 Terabyte of space (that’s a lot) for $85.99.

5. Invest in a long lens

You can get pretty close to animals on the Masai Mara, but if you want compelling photos you’ll need a long lens. When the wildebeests start to cross the Mara River, they can be hundreds of yards away. If you don’t own a long lens and you’re not eager to buy one, consider renting.

Companies such as Lensrental.com or borrowlenses.com can give you access to great lenses—and camera bodies for that matter—at a fraction of the price. Better yet, look for travel companies that offer equipment rentals to their clients, such as Wild Eye Photographic Safaris. No need to lug heavy equipment while you travel; they’ll have everything you need when you arrive.

6. Adhere to luggage requirements

Once in Kenya, it’s likely that you’ll take a small plane into the bush. Airkenya, which flies into the Masai Mara, limits bag weight to 15Kg per person, or approximately 33 lbs. Depending on how you pack, or if you have a lot of camera equipment, those pounds can add up quickly. Exceeding the limit can incur costly fines and, in some cases, bump you off the flight. Most camps offer free laundry services, which makes it easier to pack light, but you’ll want to double-check with your travel agent, camp or tour provider.

7. Don’t forget sunscreen and a hat

You’ll spend a lot of your time in a covered jeep, but the sun in Kenya is wicked strong. You’ll want a high SPF and a hat with a decent brim. Don't forget to dab SPF on your ear tips and back of your neck, either!

8. Pack a power strip

Even in the most luxurious accommodations, outlets can be scarce. Don’t waste time switching out chargers for your camera batteries, computer, or smart phone. A travel power strip makes a bothersome process, painless.

9. Don't underestimate the usefulness of a notebook

The wildebeest migration may be the reason for your trip, but you’ll see a wide variety of other wildlife as well. It’s fun to keep track of what you see each day, and it’s a great resource to reference when you return home.

10. Double-check for Wi-Fi

Some camps provide Wi-Fi, and others do not. If you need a guaranteed signal, check with your camp beforehand.

11. Take care of the people who take care of you

It is standard to budget at least $15 to $25 for each person in your group, per day, in tips for your guide. He puts an enormous amount of time and effort into making your experience extraordinary. His knowledge of animals and the bush will ensure that you’re front row center to the best sightings. It’s not mandatory—but it is somewhat customary—to give $5 to $15 per person/per day to the staff as a whole. You’ll usually find a box located in the main area of the camp where you can place your money; the employees will split it evenly.