How to Go on an Eco-Conscious Safari

Posted by Conde Nast Traveler

If you're concerned about sustainability and caring for the environment, that doesn't mean a safari goes against your values. Keep these four factors in mind when planning your trip.

CHECK LAND OWNERSHIP BEFOREHAND

Land title may not seem like the most obvious consideration when planning a trip, but Edward Loure begs to differ. One of the six winners of this year’s Goldman Environmental Prize, a prestigious annual award that honors leaders in grassroots environmental activism, Loure helps indigenous communities in northern Tanzania to legally claim back the land where traditional communities have long lived in harmony with the wildlife.

“Ask your safari whether they own or lease the land from the community,” Loure tells Condé Nast Traveler. The creation of some national parks turned traditional settlers into “conservation refugees,” he explains. By supporting companies that lease communal terrain instead of grabbing land, you are not only supporting the local Maasai and Hadza communities, but also encouraging working with locals who have knowledge of preservation.

SOFTEN YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT

Despite the aviation industry’s ongoing research, flying to a far-flung safari will inevitably create planet-warming emissions. Lessen your impact by asking about your tour’s environmentally sustainable efforts. (Is a colossal diesel generator powering the camp, for instance?) Some countries have done the groundwork for you: Kenya, for instance, has awarded 24 “gold” ratings to properties that use solar power, collect rainwater, and build with locally sourced materials.

LEARN ABOUT THE CULTURE

Remember, you’re in someone else’s proverbial backyard, after all. Even the most remote parts of the world have been home to hunter-gatherer and pastoralist communities. Ask if your travel will include any cultural components. Some providers today have hands-on experiences that will have you interact in more meaningful ways beyond mere photo ops.

THINK LONG-TERM

For most travelers, a safari jaunt is a once-in-a-lifetime affair. But that doesn’t call for a hit-and-run approach. Ask the operator how long it has been the business, and what kind of long-term investments it makes locally and for the environment. Support businesses that have staked incentives in preservation—so that long after you’re gone, efforts will be continuously made to protect the wildlife.

“Tourism can certainly be a good part of preservation,” Loure says. “But tourists have to do more research.” The more you demand of the travel industry, the more it will pay attention.

Kenyan Food Primer: 10 Essential Dishes And Drinks

Posted by Food Republic

“What are they feeding them?” That’s a question you might ask yourself as you watch a Kenyan cross a marathon finish line, followed by a second, a third chasing them, and you guessed it — a fourth Kenyan might just be on the way.

It’s a tough question, though, when you realize that most of the Kenyan runners we know well mostly come from one tribe — Kalenjin, of the high-altitude Western Rift Valley, where they’re raised on a high-starch diet. But the number of communities in Kenya? Approximately 50. Which is to say, it’s a tough cuisine to track. And then there are the Indians who were hired from erstwhile British India to build the Kenya-Uganda Railway, bringing with them Hindu flavors during Kenya’s colonial period. It’s a mixed cuisine, to say the least.

To get an understanding of true Kenyan dishes, we asked the students at Karen Blixen Hospitality School — a cooking school at Karen Blixen Camp, a safari property in the Mara North Conservancy aimed at training locals in the culinary arts (guests are treated to their finished products, too) — to call out a few known staples, aided by their teacher, chef Rune Eriksen. Here’s the lineup:

Ugali is the most common staple in Kenyan cuisine.

UGALI (WHITE MAIZE MEAL)

We know what you’re thinking: Maize is indigenous to Mexico, not Africa. But maize gets around — or at least, the British do. “During the colonial period, African farmers would be paid with maize rations,” explains Eriksen. Once the British left in the 1960s, local farmers began to cultivate maize on their own. Now, ugali is the most common staple dish in Kenya, especially in the West. And there’s little finesse to the recipe: Boil water, add maize flour, stir vigorously. Eventually you get a consistency — a thick porridge — that can be molded into rounds, used to pocket food with your hands as an edible utensil, or dipped into stews.

This collard green is available year round and is often served with ugali.

SUKUMA WIKI (COLLARD GREENS, TOMATOES AND ONIONS)

“This literally translates to ‘stretch the week,’” says Eriksen. Sometimes mistaken for kale, sukuma wiki is a collard green that earned its Swahili name because it’s available year round and is perennially cheap. Sautéed with vegetable oil, onions and tomatoes, it’s almost always taken with ugali, making it the second-most common staple in the country.

The only seasoning needed for githeri is salt.

GITHERI (RED KIDNEY BEANS, WHITE CORN)

Maize wasn’t the only payment for farmers — beans were, too. It’s no surprise that the ingredients would be served together in one dish. “The traditional way of cooking githeri involves boiling both the corn and beans together in a clay pot over an open fire that is set up on three stones,” says Eriksen. For the seasoning? Just salt; no spice. The mixture is sometimes lightly fried with onions. Still, don’t forget that salt.

Cardamom is sometimes found in these sugary, doughnut-like pastries.

MAHAMRI (SUPER-AWESOME PASTRIES)

“‘Kenyan cardamom doughnuts’ would best describe these heavenly, tasty and super-awesome pastries,” says Eriksen. (Eriksen, and not just his students, digs these sugary delights.) You’ll find these particularly in coastal towns like Mombasa, Malindi, Kilifi and Lamu, but luckily, other regions can’t resist them. Mahamri follows a simple and sweet dough recipe: flour, water, sugar and baking powder, plus dried coconut, coconut milk and sometimes, but not always, cardamom and cinnamon. Cardamom has its own history in Kenya. “The Indians helped build the British Railway, and once it was complete, some settled within the coastal towns,” explains Eriksen. As such, locals adopted Indian cuisine and integrated it with their local cuisine — thus, pastries like mahamri.

NYAMA CHOMA (LAMB OR GOAT)

“You cannot understand Kenya without trying nyama choma,” says Eriksen. We’re talking about grilled meats. Nyama choma can be traced back to the Maasai community living around Maasai Mara, the area in which Karen Blixen Camp operates. “Nomadic by nature, and being pastoralists, the Massai’s source for protein was mainly from cattle, especially beef, milk and blood,” explains Eriksen. These meats are grilled over an open fire but really serve as an excuse to gather and chat. “It can all be summed up as Kenya’s social lubricant,” says Eriksen, not forgetting to mention that nyama choma goes down well with a Tusker, Kenyan beer.

Mukimo was traditionally served on special occasions, such as weddings and the naming of a child.

MUKIMO (POTATOES, PUMPKIN LEAVES, WHITE MAIZE AND PEAS)

In central Kenya, mukimo is often reserved for special ceremonies, and it’s always a smash: Whatever the variation of ingredients, things like potatoes, green peas, pumpkin leaves and maize are all mashed together. “Mukimo can be traced back to early communities living around Mt. Kenya, where it was a meal associated with weddings and initiation ceremonies, or special occasions like [the] naming of a child, or when the elders had a meeting in the village,” explains Eriksen.

These omena fish are caught, boiled and deep-fried.

FRIED OMENA (FISH, TOMATOES, ONIONS AND CHILI)

Similar to anchovies and sardines, omena is the name given to this specific fish by the Luo tribe, who live by the shores of Lake Victoria in the western part of Kenya. “On moonless nights, the lake will be dotted with boats having tin lamps, which attract the fish to the surface of the water,” says Eriksen. The fish are caught, boiled and deep-fried.

Mutura sausage can be found throughout Kenya.

MUTURA WITH KACHUMBARI (AFRICAN SAUSAGE)

Initially a delicacy for the central Kukuyu tribe, muturu achieved ubiquity; you’ll find it throughout the country at roadside shacks, being grilled and cut into pieces. “The mutura itself is prepared by mostly stuffing the large intestines of a cow or a goat, mixing ingredients like blood, minced meat and spices,” says Eriksen. “Then the two ends will be tied firmly and placed over a charcoal grill and grilled until tender.”

This dish is prepared in every house during festive seasons.

PILAU RICE (RICE, ONION, TOMATOES, GARLIC AND PILAU MASALA)

Along the Swahili Coast, it’s not just the ocean breeze you’ll catch. “During festive seasons, you won’t miss the waft of pilau rice being prepared in every house,” says Eriksen. It’s a specialty of coastal people who mingled with Hindu settlers. “The rice is usually flavored with spices, then cooked with well-seasoned beef or poultry,” says Eriksen. And of course, vegetarian variations are available, too.

Chai, usually had in the morning with family, is the most popular beverage in Kenya.

CHAI YA TANGAWIZI (MILK, GINGER, SUGAR AND BLACK TEA)

“Chai is the most popular beverage in the country,” says Eriksen. Chai, obviously influenced by Indian chai, is the Swahili word for tea, and it’s taken every morning with family. The Kenyan variation, tangawizi tea, is brewed with ginger. Eriksen’s students hasten to add that chai ya tangawizigoes well with those super-awesome mahamri pastries. How could it not?

Take Five: Kenya’s National Parks and Reserves

Posted by Paste Magazine

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


For more safari surprises, make your way around Kenya’s protected lands.

1. Nairobi National Park
No other city in the entire continent—or world—boasts a comparable wildlife park so close to its capital. Drive just beyond city limits to Nairobi National Park, and the sights are immeasurable; 45 sq. miles of grass plains share the horizon with Nairobi’s skyscrapers—don’t be surprised when a giraffe lifts it’s head to enjoy the hazy cityscape. Pack your binoculars if you’re hoping to spot one of the 400+ species of birds. Fancy the “Big Five,” Africa’s most revered animals? Out of the handful, Nairobi National Park is home to four: lion, rhino, buffalo, and leopard. Spend the morning tracking wildlife before heading back into Nairobi’s bustling streets. 

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


2. Amboseli National Park

Southeast of Nairobi is where you’ll spot the one mammal out of the Big Five that Nairobi National Park is missing: the elephant. At Amboseli National Parkyou’re in the midst of one of the rarest, highest concentrations of one of the largest elephant species in the world. About 1,600 elephants rumble beneath the shadow of distant snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro, foraging with twisted trunks, huddled together with grand, ivory tusks for which they’re unfortunately poached. Here, in this wildlife haven, longstanding operations like Amboseli Trust for Elephants study and protect the population, while glamping properties like Tortilis Campoperate adjacent, private wildlife conservancies (over 30,000 acres, in fact), to expand the safety net.

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


For more safari surprises, make your way around Kenya’s protected lands.

3. Maasai Mara National Reserve

Sharing its southern border with Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, the Maasai Mara National Reserve is Kenya’s most coveted intersection—or at least, its most popular destination. Wildlife is naturally unruly, so safari guides rarely make guarantees in Africa. But only in the Maasai Mara National Reserve will guides practically promise one particular spotting: the lion (this particular spot happens to be densely packed with them). Sprawling 583 sq. miles, it’s safe to assume you’ll see at least some of the Big Five, as they frequent the park in troves. The Maasai people, ancestral inhabitants of the reserve for which it’s named, live just beyond the game parks, many of whom now command posts at safari camps (like the riverside Karen Blixen Camp).

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


For more safari surprises, make your way around Kenya’s protected lands.

4. Hell’s Gate National Park
Unlike its name might suggest, Hell's Gate National Park is so peaceful that, unlike most other national parks in Kenya, travelers can safari on foot, or even bike. North of Nairobi, the central park rarely sees the carnivorous game of other regions. Zebras, buffalos, giraffes, elands and impalas enjoy their freedom to graze, while you’re free to watch. Of course, game viewing isn’t the only sport; volcanoes and towering red cliffs are among the higher sights in the dusty terrain that’s well-suited for a hike. 

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


For more safari surprises, make your way around Kenya’s protected lands.

5. Samburu National Reserve
For making the trek to the Northernmost camp out of the batch, Samburu National Reserve, the reward is not just the chance to see the less-seen, but to see something special altogether: Kenya’s “Special Five.” Also known as the Samburu Five, the set of wildlife is unique to this part of Kenya and includes the Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx, Somali ostrich and the long-necked gerenuk. If authenticity and undisturbed remoteness is what you seek, Samburu National Reserve has a spot for you. And fear not for your bucket list: the region is home to every one of the Big Five, too.

The range in Kenya’s vast terrain is naturally bewildering. Hugging the continent’s eastern coast, Kenya often conjures images of safari staples: lazing lions, sprawling savannah, and wide-brimmed hats. It’s amazing just how true those images can be; you really will see those lion dens and plains (and you’ll probably pack that silly hat, but you don’t actually need it). 

And while this image centers on classic—the safari we know well—don’t forget that Kenya has a north to its south; rushing rivers complement its dry savannah and nuances add to its unruly norms. A near 10th of Kenya’s land is protected national park or reserve, all different from one another. You may picture yourself belted into the back of an open Land Rover, but did you ever imagine you’d be on safari, on a bicycle? Sure, you knew about the rolling grasslands, but have you counted on a snow-capped peak, or a view of juxtaposed hyenas and skyscrapers? You might think zebras can’t change their stripes, until you’ve seen the Grevy’s zebra, whose stripes are narrower (and their ears larger).


For more safari surprises, make your way around Kenya’s protected lands.

No Foolin': These Amazing Restaurant Views & Menus Are Real

Posted by Parade.com

View from the Water Hole Snack Bar in Nairobi (Photo courtesy Ole Sereni)

There are millions of restaurants around the world. More than six hundred thousand of them in the United States alone according to statista.com. No matter how good the food or unusual the location, standing out from the crowd is a challenge. So on April Fool’s Day, a round-up of some of some of the most incredible eating spots in the world seems appropriate. Here are five you’d be foolish not to try.

Ole-Sereni in Nairobi, Kenya

Many restaurants boast great food with killer views. But Waterhole Snack Bar at Ole-Sereni Hotel in Nairobi is literally perched above a killing field. The restaurant occupies a wide deck overlooking Nairobi National Game Park. Living in the 72-square-mile park are some of Kenya’s most famous predators including lions, panthers and hyenas.

On a recent morning, several lionesses were making quick work of a water buffalo they had killed within view of the restaurant. Diners abandoned their own breakfast to devour the spectacle. Make no mistake, this is no safari camp. The Ole Sereni is an established in-town hotel serving business travelers who may never leave Kenya’s capital city during their stay. But for those guests on their way to one of the country’s many wildlife parks, this restaurant provides a healthy taste of what’s to come.