Thursday, July 27, 2017
Dispatch, Kenya: Up, up and away
Dispatch, Kenya: Up, up and away
15. June 2017 12:22 by Eric Moya
At the invitation of the Kenya Tourism Board, destinations editor Eric Moya is visiting game reserves throughout the East African nation. Read his first dispatch HERE; his second dispatch follows.
It's the same joke, with a few variations: "Kenyan massage." "Africa massage." "Safari massage." The punch line being that the path to safari bliss is not a paved one, and the bumps and jolts along the way are part of the experience.
It's the same joke, with a few variations: "Kenyan massage." "Africa massage." "Safari massage." The punch line being that the path to safari bliss is not a paved one, and the bumps and jolts along the way are part of the experience.
And, fair enough. A little jostling -- OK, occasionally a lot of jostling -- as one winds through Kenya's conservancies, reserves and national parks is the smallest of prices to pay for the chance to see big cats, elephants and more in their natural habitats. And all things considered, the four-wheel-drive, open-air Toyota Land Cruisers we've been using throughout this trip are actually pretty comfortable.
Still, it was a pleasant change of pace to take in Masai Mara from a different viewpoint: the sky.
There are a few hot-air balloon operators in Masai Mara, but the drill, I gather, is basically the same.
Guests arrive just before sunrise and watch as the balloon is inflated. We left our host property, the Angama Mara, at about 5 a.m. to arrive at SKYSHIP around a quarter to 6.
The safety instructions were brief: Upon landing, take a seat, grab the hand grips and lean back against the basket's headrest, as you'll be landing with your back to the ground.
The safety instructions were brief: Upon landing, take a seat, grab the hand grips and lean back against the basket's headrest, as you'll be landing with your back to the ground.
Upon takeoff, I was struck by the gentle pace. The occasional roar of the burner was a nice change from the constant hum of a four-wheel-drive vehicle, and the smooth glide a stark contrast to the Cessnas in which we'd be traveling from park to park.
The pilot offered commentary about Masai Mara and its inhabitants during the hour-long ride, but with views like this, I confess I was paying little attention.
We'd been having decent luck spotting wildlife throughout our Kenya trip, and frankly, after a while, one pack of elephants doesn't look terribly different from another. But the hot-air balloon ride had a couple of surprises for us.
Most importantly, we got our first decent glimpse at a black rhino, thus concluding our quest for the Big Five. And while giraffes have been ubiquitous throughout our Kenya visit, this was our first bird's-eye view.
Upon landing, Skyship had Champagne and breakfast waiting a short drive away. I gazed off as another hot-air balloon took flight. While I was happy to return to our Land Cruiser for another day of wildlife watching, I couldn't help but envy the folks floating off on their skyward safari.
Monday, July 24, 2017
11 things you need to know before going on your first safari
Published July 21, 2017
by Alex Schechter
Wild giraffes in Kenya
Source: Rich Carey/Shutterstock
Before my first trip to
Kenya, I’d done a little reading, but nothing could have really prepared me for
what I was about to experience. When our tiny 12-seater touched down on the
dirt runway in Amboseli National Park, roughly 140 miles
south of Nairobi, I was giddy with excitement. Zebra calves were leaping in the
air, and two giraffe heads peeked out nervously from behind an acacia tree. In
fact, the plane was forced to circle the airstrip three times before landing,
due to wandering animals.
I was immediately thrown
into the wild. Not that I would’ve had it any other way — on the dusty drive
over to Ol Donyo Lodge, I scanned the landscape like I
was seeing Earth for the first time: flat, dry, streaked with gold and green,
and above it all, hidden behind a cloud, Mount Kilimanjaro, the continent’s
tallest peak. Within a few hours of settling in, I watched as monkeys, impala,
elephants and giraffe all paraded by, less than 200 feet from my bed.
“Most people here are
first-time guests,” said Jackson Lemunge, my guide on the first day, “And those
who are repeat guests are back for a reason. They want to see the same thing.”
In Swahili, safari
literally means “journey,” and for most of us, a place like Kenya is about as
far from home as you can get. The element of surprise is a cornerstone of the
whole experience. Still, there are a few items of business you’ll want to get
under your belt. Unless otherwise noted, this list references the safari
experience in general, so the following guidelines will help you with any trip,
whether you’re traveling in Kenya, Botswana or South Africa.
Figure out your visa situation
Tourist visas are
required for American travelers entering Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe, but not for Botswana or South Africa. In most cases, they can be
purchased online and printed out ahead of time. It’s best to be prepared
— I was able to buy my visa in-person at Jomo Kenyaata International
Airport when I arrived in Nairobi, but I had to pay the $50 fee in cash. Credit
cards weren’t accepted, and the ATM in the arrivals hall wasn’t very reliable.
Don’t leave vaccines until the last minute
It’s a good idea to make
an appointment with your doctor at least one month before a trip to Africa,
since some vaccines take a few weeks to kick in. Like in other developing parts
of the world, typhoid is a risk here, as is hepatitis A and yellow fever, so all of those vaccines are recommended. As for malaria,
your doctor will be able to talk you through the different antimalarial pills.
Some travelers, myself included, after learning about adverse side effects like
nausea and intense dreams, opt not to take any. Instead, I relied on
nonpharmaceutical prevention methods: bed nets while sleeping, exposing as
little skin as possible during dusk hours (when mosquitoes are most active) and
treating my clothes with Permethrin spray before my trip.
If you’re unsure about
which vaccines are required, Passport Health is a good resource,
whether you’re traveling to Africa or anywhere else.
Pack light
Here’s the quick advice:
pack as little as possible. Not only will the small planes refuse bags heavier
than 33 pounds, you simply don’t need a lot of stuff. You’re dressing for
comfort here, not style.
During the morning and
afternoon, when you’re out on game drives, plan on lightweight, light-colored
pants and a t-shirt. I’ve heard several theories on why neutral tones are
recommended (they won’t show dirt and dust, mosquitoes can’t camouflage easily
against them), but that’s the standard. It gets chilly in the evenings, so pack
layers. You’ll also need a wide-brim hat (Tilley is
a solid brand) and good walking boots (they’re more resilient against the dust,
and will be needed if you go on any walking safaris). For women, a pashmina is
a good idea, too.
Bring a sweater, a
raincoat, some high-factor sunscreen, insect repellent with DEET, a flashlight
and some wet wipes. All lodges will provide bottled water, though only the
high-end ones tend to supply extras like binoculars and plug adapters.
Know how to amuse yourself
Since animals are most
active when the sun’s going up or coming down, game drives
typically happen early in the morning and late in the afternoon. That
leaves plenty of downtime during midday and after dinner. And since most lodges
and camps use generators, which only run in the morning and late evening, you
can’t always rely on electricity for entertainment. Instead, plan on board
games, a pack of cards, a book or magazine (this is your chance to catch up on
all those old New Yorkers you have lying around), or good,
old-fashioned conversation to pass the time.
Bring a real camera...
This may sound obvious,
but when you’re riding horseback through the plains of southern Kenya and
giraffe are casually sauntering by like supermodels at a Victoria’s Secret
after-party, you’re going to want a camera. A real one, with a good lens and
some spare memory cards. I assumed my puny iPhone 6S would have the bandwidth
to capture all the spectacular scenery and wildlife I was seeing, and that was
a mistake.
One day in Maasai Mara,
after staking out for 15 minutes next to a tree with a leopard in it, the damn
thing climbed down and came within two feet of our Jeep. I could’ve reached
down and pet him on the head, he was that close. My Instagram video was certainly
nothing to laugh at, but compared to the guy next to me snapping away with his
Nikon, I felt like an amateur.
...and a notepad, too
Call me a nerd (or a
journalist), but I can’t help writing down all the useful bits of information I
learn while on the road. In Kenya, I had my mind blown practically every hour.
Did you know elands (a kind of antelope) can jump 7 feet high in the air from
standstill? Or that cheetahs, the fastest animal in the world, can accelerate
to 90 km/hour in just 3 seconds? Or that a single elephant creates 155 kg of
dung on the daily? Once I got home, my notes made it easier to annoy friends
with a truly random stream of fun — and useless — safari facts. (As it turns
out, the hunting habits of lions sound way less interesting when you’re not
actually seeing the hunt take place.)
Get to know your guide
Which brings me to an
important aspect of any safari: your guide. For three days in Chyulu Hills
National Park, my group was led around by Lemunge, a deeply knowledgeable
Maasai man who was also an aspiring wildlife photographer. When it got cold, he
unpacked blankets for us to wrap ourselves in. When he spotted a lion paw print
in the dirt road, he drove out of his way to find it.
Once, at the end of a
daunting trek through some lava tubes up in Chyulu Hills, we enjoyed
an impromptu cocktail hour, with drinks poured from a makeshift bar on the hood
of our Jeep. This is typical. As the only staffer who spends the entire day
with you, your guide acts as a driver, storyteller, bartender, chaperone and
naturalist, all rolled into one. The better relationship you have, the smoother
and more enriching your safari will be. (As for tipping, that’s at your own
discretion, though $10 per person per day is what’s recommended, and can be
given in USD or Kenyan Shillings on the final day.)
Show some manners
A sign was posted around
one of the lodges we visited in Samburu National Reserve, Elephant Bedroom Camp, that read: “Wild Animals Are Dangerous!
Guests Are Advised To Keep To the Floodlit Path After Dark.” This was entirely
for our benefit: Elephants, which are beautiful but can get aggressive when
startled or threatened, roam freely through the property at all hours of the
day. Once, on my way to dinner, a staffer scolded me for traveling the short
distance between my tent and the dining room unattended. Didn’t I know Mantiga,
a 26-year-old bull, was chomping on some leaves nearby? I gave a nervous smile
as the guard, armed with a rifle, escorted me the rest of the way.
The same goes for pretty
much everything else about being on safari: Be respectful. When the guide tells
you not to wander to the edge of the river because crocodiles could be hiding
in mud holes along the banks, or not to stick your arms out of the Jeep, you
listen. These animals aren’t trained performers and this isn’t a zoo. You’re in
their home, you play by their rules.
Drink up
Having said that, your
safari guide wants you to relax. That’s why every afternoon, like clockwork, in
the space between the second game drive and dinner, there’s something called a
“sundowner,” which usually consists of gin and tonic, but other spirits have
been known to make an appearance.
The ritual dates back
to British colonial rule, but apparently no one’s
grown tired of it yet. And why would they? Driving out to a spectacular
location in the middle of nowhere for unlimited booze while the sun goes down —
that’s an excellent way to close out the day. Plus, after rumbling around for
hours in a hot Jeep scouring the bush for black rhinos and leopards, you’re
going to have plenty of stories to swap.
Stoke your curiosity
“Village visits,” often
a built-in part of the itinerary, are one of the non-animal activities you’ll
do on safari. The style and fee (usually around $20 per person) varies from
country to country, but typically consists of a coordinated visit to a rural
tribe, with some or all of the money going back to the village. You’ll be
greeted with a traditional dance, performed by natives in their bright red
tunics and beaded jewelry. This is followed by a walk through the dwellings
(which, in our case, consisted of a dozen mud-and-stick huts) and a chance to
purchase souvenirs like necklaces, wooden statues and tribal masks.
Yes, the whole thing
felt a little staged. But rather than stand around gawking uncomfortably, I
treated this like cultural immersion 101. I had a million questions about
tribal life in rural Kenya, and here were people who could give me direct
answers. With our guide acting as translator, I fired away: is it true they
drank cow’s blood? (Yes, but only mixed with milk.) How many wives can a man
take? (Up to five.) What holds those huts together? (Cow poop.)
Save money with an off-season visit
The July wildebeest
migration is a sight to behold. But don’t limit your safari
to one month of the year. In Maasai Mara, arguably Kenya’s best and busiest
terrain for wildlife spotting, the lions, leopards and elephants are here
year-round, and they’re often easier to see when the migration isn’t happening,
said Tyler Davis, the director at Angama Mara. In fact, the rainy season (March
to May) can actually be a great time to visit. “You’ll have the whole Mara to
yourself. The fields are super green, the animals are fat, and the
thunderstorms each afternoon are incredible to watch,” he said. Not to mention,
there are discounted rates.
Most hotels in the area
hover around $400 to $600 a night during peak season (July to October), but in
the off season, those prices drop significantly. Which is how you could end up
with an all-inclusive stay at one of Kenya’s most exclusive lodges with private
balconies, a 24-hour open bar in the lobby and gourmet cuisine, all for half
the price.
Monday, July 10, 2017
Dispatch, Kenya: Big Five? Who's Counting?
Dispatch, Kenya: Big Five? Who's Counting?
13. June 2017 15:33 by Eric Moya
At the invitation of the Kenya Tourism Board, destinations editor Eric Moya is visiting game reserves throughout the East African nation.
It's about the halfway point of my trip to Kenya, and each day has brought its share of breathtaking sights.
I bought a new camera lens for this trip; I wanted to be ready for any and all photo opportunities, whether of the wide-angle persuasion or something calling for an up-close approach.
The range of my new "glass," as photography enthusiasts put it, is of the extensive, all-in-one variety; changing lenses seemed like an unnecessary encumbrance, and besides, I wasn't expecting my subjects to be particularly cooperative while I fumbled with my SLR. But when you're this photogenic, that can be forgiven.
Being out in safari country, far away from city lights, has afforded ample opportunities for landscape photography. At Ol Donyo Lodge, located on privately owned land next to Chyulu Hills National Park, I snapped some shots of Kilimanjaro and the night sky from the comfort of my rooftop star bed. Here at the Elephant Bedroom Camp at Samburu National Reserve, closer to the equator, the reddish-brown terrain proved a natural subject for sunset shots during our sundowner safari.
As far as wildlife photography, the goal when in Africa is spotting each of the Big Five: buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion and rhino. As I write this from Elephant Bedroom Camp, we've spotted three: a lion on the grounds of Ol Donyo, a leopard on a Samburu game drive this morning and, as one might expect at a place called Elephant Bedroom Camp, plenty of pachyderms.
"We're safe," said our rep from the Kenya Tourism Board after we encountered the leopard, meaning that from here on in, with Masai Mara the next stop on the itinerary, spotting buffalo and rhino should be relatively easy.
There are no guarantees, of course. While giraffes and zebras are seemingly a sure thing on any game drive, as are elephants, we've encountered only one lion and one leopard over four days. (For the checklist-inclined, however, Samburu also has what it calls its Special Five, animals such as the distinctively patterned reticulated giraffe that are indigenous to this region.)
And if my Big Five checklist ends up incomplete? If I come up a little short with wildlife encounters, there's always the human encounters I've had along the way. There's the camaraderie of our media trip group and our safari guides. At Ol Donyo there was the jet-setting couple from Mexico City on their honeymoon and the family from Puerto Rico whose teenage son was trying out some sweet photo gear (including a drone and an SLR considerably more advanced than my own). At Elephant Bedroom Camp, there's the teachers from Athens, Ga., who are visiting friends in Nairobi during their summer break, and a handful of other families I have yet to chat with, with everyone busy venturing off on their own safari adventures.
And, of course, they might not all be of Big Five specimens, but I've taken more wildlife photos over the past four days than I have in my entire life.
Five? Please. The once-in-a-lifetime experiences here in Kenya are countless.
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