Kenya Tourist Board U.S. Press Coverage: Globetrotting Texan: The Emotive That is Kenya

By Marilyn Jones

I think my love affair with Kenya starts when I begin to take in the grace of the land; the joy in the simplicity of a campfire, bird song and leaves rustling in the wind. Then the animals close in around my heart, holding all the other feelings and emotions and experiences together.

Nothing can prepare you for a Kenyan safari. No matter whom you talk to or what you read, this sprawling East African country straddling the Equator is as much an emotional as it is a destination. You simply have to be here to understand its charm and magic.

Maasai Mara National Reserve

My adventure begins when I board a helicopter near Hemingways Nairobi Hotel and am whisked off to an airstrip where I take a bush plane bound for Maasai Mara, widely considered to be Africa’s greatest wildlife reserve. During the flight I see great herds of wildebeests making their annual migration from Tanzanea in search of green grazing lands. Millions of wildebeests and zebras make the journey every year between June and September.

Elephants and giraffe, zebras and gazelles are also dwarfed by the distance and the vastness of the Mara. Comprised of more than 200 square miles of open plains, woodlands and riverine forest, the Mara is joined by privately-owned conservancies that more than double the land mass set aside for the animals in this region.

When I land, I am welcomed by representatives of Sanctuary Olonana, the tented camp where I will spend my first night in the bush. I board a jeep-like four-wheel- drive truck and begin my first game drive. Right out of the gate my guide Abdul points out a lion and lioness in the tall tawny grass.

In front of the truck three elands — Africa’s largest antelope — pass by. Before I reach an area set up for my first bush breakfast, I also gaze with awe upon zebras, giraffes, gazelles and topis.

Later in the afternoon I again venture out on a game drive. This will become my routine for the next six days: early morning game drive with breakfast in the bush, midday lunch at camp, late afternoon game drive, campfire and dinner, often under the stars.

The next day I am driven halfway to my next camp — Masa Plains — where I meet my new driver and guide Duncan.

Along the drive toward the camp, I find myself in the middle of the wildebeest and zebra great migration that I witnessed from the bush plane. All around me are thousands of wildebeests; the bulls singing their monotone song of control over their females and calves. Further on I see two lionesses stretched out for a nap in the morning light as if dreaming about this great smorgasbord that surrounds them.

When I arrive at Mara Plains, I am told there are no fences here. If I need anything or anyone after night falls, I am to simply call out and one of the security staff will assist me. In most of the camps, the Maasai people are employed as guides, stewards, chefs, security and housekeepers.

After a family-style lunch where I met other Americans on safari, I have the opportunity to speak with a conservancy warden. Richard Pye explains the land is owned by the Maasai and is rented from them in exchange for moving away from the area and grazing their cattle on different land. If they do not want to move, they still receive rent for their land, only a smaller amount. No one is forced to move.

The next morning I am up before dawn to take a hot air balloon ride over the Mara at sunrise. The group I am with is as excited as I am and the early hour doesn’t dampen anyone’s spirits.

Our balloon captain, Elly Kirkman of Balloon Safaris, quickly takes charge, explains all safety and operational procedures, and just before daybreak, we are on the wind sailing over a herd of cape buffalo, zebras, a lone giraffe and scurrying hyenas.

While away during the morning, my luggage is moved to Mara Toto, another property operated by Great Plains Conservation. Duncan is still my guide and on my final game drive with him, I have the opportunity to watch a leopard gracefully walk along a river and climb a tree, five lions relax in the shadow of an acacia tree and a cheetah meander through long pale yellow grass. My heart swells; what an honor to witness these — and all the other animals — in person.

Amboseli National Park and Nairobi

Kenya is a country of diverse ecosystems. From the green and golden grazing lands of Maasai Mara, I take a bush plane to Ambosli, an arid land scattered with swampland.

The 151-square-mile national park is renowned for its elephant populations and

its impressive view of Mount Kilimanjaro, the tallest mountain in Africa.

Picked up from the airstrip by Joseph, a guide for Tortilis Camp and an expert on Ambosli and its wildlife, I am quickly acquainted with the land and its animals. Although known for its elephants, we pass a pool with several hippos, lovely exotic birds and herds of zebras and wildebeest.

The next morning I set off with a group of Americans, first to a large hill in the center of the park offering fantastic views of the surrounding plains, and then to a dry lake bed where more than 250 elephants are grazing.

The site is overwhelming as we draw near. The elephants are nearly silent as they curl their trucks around elephant grass like twirling spaghetti on a fork, pull it from the ground, shake off the dirt and eat. If the clump of grass plays hard to get, they give it a little kick to loosen it from the earth.

We watch as the massive creatures surround the truck. We are privileged to see the tiniest member of the herd, estimated by Joseph as being only four or five weeks old.

This day we also visit a Maasai homestead.

We are greeted by several warriors and then the entire village joins in to perform the traditional welcome dance. What a joy to see their bright and flowing clothes, painted faces and intricately beaded necklaces, bracelets and earrings.

The leader invites us into one of their semi-permanent huts known as Manyattas. It is the role of the wife to construct the hut from cattle dung and grass.

After our tour we are invited to look at the beautiful beadwork jewelry and baskets, and carvings the women have made and are selling.

The next morning I take another flight, this time back to Nairobi where I first check into the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel before heading for the recently renovated Nairobi National Museum.

The museum is a good place to learn more about Kenya’s history and culture. By visiting it at the end of my Kenyan adventure, the exhibits and displays underline much of what I have learned during the week. Helpful staff is also on hand to answer questions.

Although I purchase several beaded items from the Maasai people, I am pleased to find three excellent gift shops at the museum — each with a different selection of Kenyan souvenirs. The Fairmont Norfolk Hotel also has a very nice gift shop.

The last day of my trip I rent a day room at Nairobi Tented Camp and spent my time in Nairobi National Park.

My guide is Steve. Like the other wildlife areas I have visited, there is a plethora of wildlife in the park which is actually located within the city limits.

The highlight of my day is the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage located near the park. This orphanage is for elephant calves and rhinos from all over Kenya.

Elephant calves are orphaned because of poaching and receive 24-hour-a-day

care from highly dedicated staff members who become surrogate mothers. Eventually the calves are moved to Tsavo National Park, where they are carefully reintroduced into wild herds.

The center is open to the public every morning from 11 a.m. until noon. Visitors can witness firsthand the care and compassion these calves receive as well as adopt an elephant if they choose.

Soon it is time to head for the airport and home. I feel honored to have been able to meet so many kind and generous people in Kenya, and see the animals and birds they are always working to protect.

For more information:

All camp properties offer beautifully appointed tents, game drives and meals. Think 5-star hotel meets Mother Nature.

Sanctuary Olonana: www.sanctuaryretreats.com/kenya-camps-olonana

Mara Plains: http://greatplainsconservation.com/mara_plains

Mara Toto: http://greatplainsconservation.com/mara_toto

Tortilis Camp: http://tortilis.com.

Nairobi Tented Camp: www.nairobitentedcamp.co

While staying in Nairobi:

Hemingways Nairobi: www.hemingways-nairobi.co

Fairmont Norfolk Hotel: www.fairmont.com/norfolk-hotel-nairobi

Other information:

AirKenya Helicopters: www.airkenya.com