Five O'Clock Somewhere: On The Heights And Plains At Saruni Samburu, Kenya

Posted by ForbesLife

Sundowners in a ravine, with Kenya’s sacred, flat-topped Mt. Ololokwe hulking before you, is as primal as Five O’Clock gets. On the short Land Rover drive down from Saruni Samburu’s crested perch, you’ll pass cute little dik-dik antelope scurrying in the bush, and gerenuk gazelles standing upright to feed on bushes. You’ll surely stop to let elephants amble across your path. 

You’re not likely accustomed to consuming a cocktail while staring down at lion paw prints in the sand below you. But once you taste the mean limoncello G and T concocted by Saruni’s resident guide-turned-bartender Chris Letu, all hesitation will be gone.

At sundowner time, Grevy’s zebras cross the plains in front of Mt. Ololokwe.—Courtesy Saruni Samburu

With so many suitable spots in which to exhaust all of Saruni’s Five O’Clock possibilities, you’d need to make a week of your stay. The property hangs over a rock outcropping surrounded by plains that stretch forever, with a clear view of massive Mt. Kenya looming in the distance to the south. High on any guest’s list for drink locations, the upper infinity pool is built at the property’s highest and furthest point. Down below, at several waterholes disparate animal species from leopards, to long-horned oryx and Grevy’s zebra gather to drink as the sun sets. Cow bells tinkle on the plains below as herders head home with their beasts.

Head to the Saruni Samburu main building on another evening, however, and you can bask in the rays pouring into the open-air lounge space. Saruni lies right along a migratory corridor between conservation areas, and you’ll soon realize that those dark, moving specks below are herds of elephants passing by. It’s time then to break out the binocs and order a whiskey by the fire pit. Soon enough, a lightening show may well flash as the stars come out.

Saruni’s Moroccan themed main lodge is aglow at sunset. —Courtesy Saruni Samburu

What a surprise in North Central Kenya to be served lunches of focaccia, penne with cheese, linguine with capers, or quiche. The setting may be casual, but the owners are Italian and have a strict chef training program in place. Which ensures that dinner consists of more fine flavors: spinach lasagna one night, lamb in mint, ginger pork, or risotto another. 

In the afternoon, bird calls from any number of 260 species fill the air and breezes flow into your villa as you lie back to watch the cloud play, and lizards lounging on the wall. Later, during your massage in the spa, the local leopard might even pop her head into the door.

On your next sundowner in the bush, guide Chris can explain the use of local plants for tea and medicinal purposes, and share traditional Samburu rituals. At his ”warrior academy” you try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, and throwing a spear through a hoop rolled in front of you as a target. 

If you clean up later in your villa’s outdoor shower, and keep all the lights off, the long Matthews Range will be silhouetted against the fading light to the west. Who says you can’t enjoy another sundowner right from there. 

Animals as small as a genet cat up to a reticulated giraffe might walk down below, while elephants and lions can be heard in the distance. And late at night, maybe that leopard will growl somewhere outside in the rock outcroppings. Then, you really will need a drink.