Nairobi can be intimidating for a first-time visitor. First, there’s the sea of people in long airport lines, followed by the wagon-wheel spoke pattern of tedious traffic jams the minute you leave the parking lot. Then, there’s the steady march of pedestrians walking too close for comfort to the roads and highways. And then are bastions of big baboons that sit waiting for handouts (happen to have apple or candy bar in your car?) lining the lush green rural roads as you come into Karen, an area east town where many visitors stay. Mind you, entering Nairobi for the first time is exciting—yes even exhilarating—still it can be slightly overwhelming, especially after a long flight from New York.
But I have a cure for that.
But I have a cure for that.
What first-time travelers need is a way to ease into Africa a little at a time. A good night’s sleep in a clean, well-lighted place will give you all the fortification your body and spirit may need and will enable you to see all the chaos of Kenya as merely exciting pieces of a grand African adventure.
My solution? Check into Hemingways Nairobi.
Ernest “Papa” Hemingway would be proud of this place, a luxury hotel set against the backdrop of the Ngong Hills on land that was once the coffee farm of Out of Africa author Karen Blixen (aka Isak Dinesen). Sure, many fans of the macho great white hunter Hemingway picture Papa in the wild: wearing khakis and a pith helmet, shaving with a mirror hung on a tree branch, using a canvas sack sink and a bucket shower, sleeping on an old green army cot in a low tent. They imagine him roughing it in the bush or at least sleeping in concrete cell-like hotel rooms with a one-bladed ceiling fan spinning overhead. But do they know Papa and (3rd wife) Mary spent months at a time living at The Ritz in Paris?
Sure, Hemingway could rough it with the best of his macho compadres, but the truth is he often stayed at posh high-end hotels. And why not? Who doesn’t love a hot shower, crisp ironed sheets, and cups of strong espresso? Who wouldn’t enjoy a smooth Scotch sundowner drink in a leather Chesterfield sofa lined bar with an attentive bartender and pleasant low lighting?
A plantation-style boutique hotel in the tony green subdivision of Karen, Hemingways Nairobi is an exclusive all-suite property that feels like it’s far from the bustle of central Nairobi, even though it’s just a serene chauffeur-driven ride from the city. A sophisticated, but still casual enough to feel comfortable, property providing full butler service, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie and bar, Hemingways is situated perfectly for quick side trips to Nairobi National Park, the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, and other local attractions.
Hemingways Nairobi has a tranquil ambiance. Each of the 45 suites is a generous size, all with walk-in dressing rooms and a terrace with arresting views of the Ngong Hills. Enjoy a light lunch in the Brasserie overlooking the well-tended gardens.
The subdivision of Karen, where Hemingways Nairobi is set, is the site of Karen Blixen’s farm, as highlighted in the film Out of Africa. Her house is now a museum less than a mile from the hotel. While there, take an exhilarating trip to Nairobi National Park to see buffalo, giraffe, lion, leopard, baboon, zebra, wildebeest, rhino and cheetah. Then return to Hemingways Nairobi for international cuisine in the fine dining restaurant with its Hollywood theme inspired by movies about Africa, featuring a wall filled with quotes about Africa from movies and writers, including Hemingway himself.
Each of the suites at Hemmingways is named for famous people with ties to Africa. There is a Hollywood wing with rooms celebrating actors, like William Holden who filmed movies here before buying the Mount Kenya Country Club. There is also a writer’s wing with suites celebrating famous writers like Hemingway, Beryl Markham, Karen Blixen and more. There’s even an explorers’ wing with suites dedicated to people like Dr. David Livingstone (“Livingstone, I presume?”). I’ve long been fascinated with Out of Africa author Karen Blixen, so I was pleased to book the Blixen Suite—which is one of the finest suites I’ve ever had the privilege of enjoying.
Entering the Blixen Suite, I felt as though I’d entered my own large posh apartment. The pale yellow walls matched the color of the afternoon sun that fell on the hills outside the suite’s two big verandas. Guests are greeted by fresh flowers in the sitting room, dining room, bedroom and baths, and when I arrived an ice bucket in my room held a cold bottle of champagne.
A butler, Maxwell, was never more than a phone call away and was constantly ready to spoil me. He first came and showed me how to use the television and music system and all the light controls, and then asked if he could unpack my clothes or draw a bath for me. That evening, Maxwell even left a hand-written poem tucked into a little scroll on the dresser by my bed during the turn-down service. Such thoughtful small touches set Hemingways apart from other hotels in the area.
To help loosen the tense muscles after a long flight, schedule a massage at Hemingways spa, where beauticians will perform the sacred rituals and the secret arts of cleansing and reinvigoration. Be sure to book the hotels signature Kenya Coffee Scrub Ritual, an invigorating coffee exfoliation followed by a nourishing full body massage. Afterward, relax in a resting room overlooking the pool with views of the Ngong Hills or visit the salon where professional stylists and beauticians can take care of your coiffure, manicure, pedicure, threading and waxing. There is nothing but peace and pampering at Hemingways.
Author Karen Blixen writes, “You know you are truly alive when you’re living among lions.” Hemingways may seem like a posh international hotel, complete with a spa, fine restaurants and good bars—and certainly it is—but what makes it special is that, even though it is safe and gated, still there you are living among lions, and Africa, a land of wild adventure, waits outside its doors.
Papa would have loved this place.
hemingways-nairobi.com
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